(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morocco)
So after searching day after day as you know, for a cheap and easy way to get to Morocco, I found a flight from Seville, Spain to Fes, Morocco. I was very interested to go and see Morocco, from everything I have read and heard. Along my travels I was given warnings about traveling to Morocco, as a single girl alone, but then I was also told to do it, that it would be well worth it and there would be no problems. Thank god, I listened to the latter of the two, I really enjoyed my time in Morocco! Here is how it goes…
Day 174 Wed. Oct. 14 *Fes
I jumped out of bed, got ready quickly and grabbed my things to head to the bus stop to catch the bus to the airport. I made it just in time, thank god! I got on the bus and off we went, I checked in with the airline, left my bag and got my passport stamped. I had to wait for a bit as you do for any flight, and then headed for the gate, went through the passport control and then got on. I found a good spot, a three seater to myself. My flight was at scheduled to take off at 9:55am, and we were right on schedule. I flipped through a magazine and then decided to take advantage of the space and laid down. Just as I was drifting off, they announced our landing, we were on time and actually a bit early. We arrived in Fes 20 mins early which was 8:50am, Moroccan time (went back two hours from Spain). Everyone jumped up to get their things and we finally got off. On the way to boarding I overheard this gentlemen talking to an Australian couple about Morocco, giving them some warnings, etc. As, I was walking along to the building, he approached me and asked if it was my first time here and told me if I needed any help, he could help me, I thanked him and continued on. We went through passport control, easy enough, got my bag and walked on through. I had to get some Moroccan dirham's ($ currency, it is 1 EUR = approx 11.4 MAD), so had to do a little math to know what to take out. I was again approached my a lady this time and she asked if I knew how much the taxis were. I told her that I knew it would be cheaper if a group goes together, so we decided to go together and I had recognized a mother and son, that I quickly saw and spoke to in the hostel in Seville, so I waited for them and asked if they wanted to share with us as well. Great! We went out and right away, about 5-6 men came to us asking “taxi, taxi”. (there are petit taxis for short distances and grand taxis for longer) We all showed him our addresses to our accommodations and asked the price. I had been told by the hostel of how much it should be and he quoted that amount, so perfect, we were on our way. I was luckily the first one out and the kind ladies both gave me their information in case this hostel didn’t turn out, but it was fine. I was staying in the Ville-Nouvelle, which as you probably guessed is considered the new town. My hostel was part of the Hostel International chain. I buzzed to get in and the reception greeted me. I checked in and it was only like 6 EUR/ night, awesome! I was in a girls 6 bed dorm, no lockers :(, oh well. He gave me a small map and showed me a few things on it, and then proceeded to give me all kinds of warnings –if I was planning to go to the Medina (old town) in the souks (markets) I should consider a guide and I could get one for 50 MAD, I was not to trust anyone, no matter what, always keep my valuables close on me, and then he showed me some excursion offers they had. One was a camel trek of which I was already thinking about, the cost was outrageous unless you were in a group, (one bummer travelling alone). He showed me to my room
there was a common area, but this was not it, this was a private room for the gentlemen working there for them to do their prayers, I think
I was the first one in the room and quickly put my things away, made sure all my valuables were in my small pack with me and took a walk around to see where everything was. Then I approached him to find out about internet and he directed me to the internet cafe, I was also interested in going to the Medina. He informed me that 2 other girls were also going with a guide, so I went to see if they minded if I joined them. No problem, it was Dafne and Ninah from Belgium. Our guide was coming in about an hour, so I quickly walked to the internet cafe and checked emails, and hostels for my next stop. Got back in time and our guide was there, Rashid. The girls wrote down some of the things they wanted to see from their guide book and I was fine with whatever. So, we walked along to get a taxi, they went in one and I in another with our guide. We arrived at the Medina, just a rundown of Fes – it is the 3rd largest city in Morocco and is one of the Imperial cities of Morocco (old capitals of one of more dynasties( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imperial_cities_of_Morocco)
Our guide spoke very good English and he had a plan for us, where to go and what to see. We of course started at the main gates of the Medina (it is a city that is typically walled, contains many narrow and maze-like streets, and were built by Arabs as far back as the 9th century CE– the word simply means ‘city’ or ‘town’ (same as in Malta), they usually contain historical fountains, palaces and mosques and are free from car traffic.) Fes Medina is the largest in the world.
So, going into the Medina, there are the souks (markets) as well there is the mosques, and the factories. We were going to a few of those today, as for mosques, in Morocco there are only 2-3 that the public an go into, unless you are Muslim. A few warnings out guide gave us before going in was of course the keeping your valuables close, not to take pic of anyone unless you ask, including their shops or anything to do with them, and if they obliged, be prepared to pay them something. In the shops, there is no fixed prices, so it is a bartering game for what you want to spend on the item and what they will agree to. He informed us that we should have no trouble with unofficial guides today bc we were with him, this simply means if you are a tourist walking through the souks, someone will surely approach you and offer to take you around, and expect a fee later, but in Morocco, there are actual ‘official guides’ and we were lucky to have one today for our first time in the largest souk in the world. Okay, on with it…..we walked along and came to this building that used to be a mosque but is not longer in use for prayer, I just took some pics of all the articulate work
there is so much tiling around Morocco, everywhere
this would have been the fountain where they wash their feet before praying
you will see a lot more pics of cats/kittens, they are also everywhere in Morocco, and not all of them look as good as this one :(
some random shots
this is the first shop we went into
moving along
The next shop was a factory of where they make argan oils, for cooking, body oils, etc. It is made from the kernels of the Argan tree, and traditionally the Berber woman would collect the undigested pits from the goats (which climb the trees and eat the fruit), they would first crack them to get the seed out, then they would partially roast them to soften I think, and then they would ground and press them till all this goo would come out. The woman would then kneed the good until the clear oil would run through, and the rest of the goo was used for other things, and the oil for cooking or cosmetic products. This is all true and here are some pics
here they are cracking the kernels to get the seeds out
see here are the kernels, then the seeds and the hard goo and above you see the one woman turning to ground and press the seeds and the goo with the oil still in it is in the big bowl
pretty neat, and they showed and sampled some of the products
still walking along
this was the factory where they make the thing (not sure what it is called) that the carry the bride in
more randoms
this is how they transport goods to their shops inside the souk. every once in awhile you would have to squeeze up against the wall to let them pass by. I found out later, it is only 100 EUR to buy a donkey ;)
Next we went for a bite to eat at a traditional Moroccan restaurant
here is Dafne and Ninah
our food, we had Moroccan soup, tomato and onion salad, eggplant and carrots and every meal is served with bread
here we have the vegetable couscous, beef with prunes, and chicken tagine
and me
most restaurants offer a set menu of an appetizer, main course and a desert, which really makes it simple. That is what we ordered and the food was delicious, for all the times I have been offered to try couscous, I am glad I finally had it and why not where it originated :)
Next was a carpet factory/ shop, we went in and they showed us up to the top floor where the young girls were working on a carpet. This is a tradition for the girls passed down from their mothers and grandmothers who also worked in the carpet factories, most of the time it is family owned businesses. After, of course the gentlemen took us downstairs to show us a few of the different styles, with no obligation to buy
Now onto the material factory/ shop, where they make the scarves, jilbab (jilaabah), blankets, curtains, etc
Last we got to the tannery, where they dye the leather, either cows, camel, goats or sheep's leather, and they make the handbags, slippers, stools, etc. The smell was atrocious, but some of the bags and shoes were amazing
Another shop we went into that I didn’t get a pic,of was an embroidery shop. The young girls are sitting comfortably on some cushions working away, and it is really rather amazing,the pattern is the same on both sides, that is a lot of hard work for those girls and apparently they do only work a few hours a day, as it is a big strain on their eyes.
Well, that was the tour, was pretty cool. Very interesting that a few of the shop owners thought I was Berber. They would chat with our guide about how I looked and they were convinced that I was, either Berber or Arabic…hhhmmm… Odd. Our guide would go into another room in some of the shops to pray. We continued to walk on the way out and we did stop a few times to look at some merchandise, at one point Dafne was really interested in a handbag and so she was asking about it and the shop keeper was giving prices, etc, next thing you know our guide got a bit irate and told us let’s go. We figured out that when your with a guide, he takes you to the places he chooses bc if you buy at the higher prices they give, he gets a commission. So, he didn’t want us to buy from this particular shop, kinda silly. After we made it out of the gates, we left our guide and decided to take a walk and sit for a drink. The popular drink here is mint tea, they serve it in a short clear glass with the mint leaves in the glass
We sat and had our drinks and I just observed everyone and everything around me. It really is a different world here in Morocco. Once we got up to go, we had to flag down a taxi and well that was not easy, as so many other people were doing the same and some would just jump right in the car in front of you. Finally we did get one and surely got ripped off for the cost, as he didn’t have his meter on but oh well. Got back to the hostel and chilled out. I asked the reception about Chefchaouen and he gave me some information, let me know how long the bus ride was and how much, good stuff. Then I went to take a shower and funny, they said there is hot water only between 9 – 10, but it is am, no pm, so I could barely stand it, was so cold. I was warned about that here and read about it, that hot water is hard to come by, barely any public toilets have paper, so you have to bring your own, and they actually sell them by the rolls in the shops. Like I said a whole different world. Off to bed early.
This turtle was in the garden at the hostel, I am assuming he is their pet ;)
Day 175 Thur. Oct. 15
I woke up really early once, even though it is only a 2 hour time difference I wasn’t used to it, so I fell back to sleep. Finally got up again, and went to brkfast, they served a chocolate croissant and coffee and tea, I sat with Dafne and Ninah. They were heading back towards the medina to go up this hill to see a view of Fes and then to see the Jewish neighbourhood and to the hammams, so I asked if I could join then, so that was the plan for the day. First I needed to go get my bus ticket for Chefchaouen. I went back to my room and got ready. The reception told me I could switch rooms and share with the girls which was nice,so I could leave some of my bag there while we toured today.Then, I quickly inquired with the reception on directions to the hill, and got the information. I told the girls and off we went, first to the bus station, got my ticket and it was only 7 EUR. Then we walked over to a park to look through their guide book and plan our day, we wanted to walk to the Medina to see a bit of Ville Nouvelle. So we figured it out and off we walked, we got a bit turned around a couple of times and thankfully they girls spoke fluent French as here in Morocco, the languages spoken are first officially is Arabic (Darija), and second is French as well as Berber, so they could ask directions. We found our way to the main road Hassan II, and walked along back towards the Medina
We got to the Medina and well, regardless of having no guide today we braved through to get to the other side. We were first looking for the old Jewish neighbourhood and we did have a few young guys bug us to help us find it, but we ended up finding it on our own somewhat. We walked along and this one gentlemen started to walk with us (this is how they do it, the unofficial guides, they just join u), we told him we did not need a guide and he said he wasn’t, that he did the restorations of the synagogue, and he would take us there. So he walked us around a few spots, we saw a cemetery of the people who died in the Black Plague and then he showed us the synagogue of which is not longer, people live there now. Once we were done, he of course worked up to telling us a donation would be good for the continued restorations. So we gave him 10 MAD, well he got angry and told us he just took time to walk us around, and so I mentioned to him, that he said he was not a guide and he said no, and I reminded him that it is illegal to claim to be a guide, and walked away. (I read that somewhere on someone’s blog that if someone bothers you, to remind them that unofficial guides are illegal and they will leave you alone). It is just so odd, that they offer their help, obviously with the expectation of some money but then when you give them some, they get a bit angry about how much.
some pics of the neighbourhood
here you can see where the Mezuzah was (a traditional Jewish home will have one, it is to fulfill the mitzvah (biblical commandment) to inscribe the words of the Shema on the doorposts of your house) – got that from Wikipedia)
ok, one of these two was was the doorway of the old synagogue
From there we walked through to find the one exit we needed by the Palace to go up to the hill. We saw the Palace from the outside and no pics allowed.
the gardens by the Palace
check this out, this is the only country that I have been to that uses their own language for their stop sign
We got a mini taxi and went up the hill, here is the view over Fes
We sat there for a bit to chill and the a couple of officers came along and told us it was not safe to sit here as their was only two of them on duty in this area, so we walked along. When we came to the tombs, I think they were a truck of a few more police came and asked if we were okay, strange. More views along the way
walked down the hill and came to a big beautiful hotel, we went inside to use the toilets and ask for directions and we admired the pool outside, then we made our way back through the Medina to see if we could find one of the hammams (baths). We walked along and then sat down for a drink, here is Dafne having another mint tea
their coke bottles even have Arabic on them…cool
We met a couple of Austrian girls and they had been to the hammam, so they told us about it, the thing is you needed your own black soap (a special soap they use in the hammams) and towel and we did not have that, so we decided to cancel that idea and make our way back. we had to go back through the Medina to get out the gate we came into. We weren’t bothered by anyone trying to be our guide this time, (lol….maybe they thought I was the guide….haha), the shop keepers of course did approach us to come into their shops and ‘just have a look, don’t have to buy’, but you know the minute you step into one, they are on you, asking what you are looking for, telling you they will give you a good price, etc. We did go into one shop and Dafne was looking at handbags and well the bartering began, the minute you touch something, they are on you. It is crazy, I joked with the guy, saying how this whole thing was crazy. That we can’t ask what the price is of something bc they automatically think you want to buy, and so they ask you back what price do you think. The scary thing is some of them get really angry at what you say, but the bartering still goes on, until they meet at a reasonable price. I think it is hilarious, and the fact that they use the same lines on everyone, and just walking along, it is like a competition for them to see who gets the customer to come in their shop and buy. I know it is a way of life for them, but strange. (I guess working retail for so long, I could never do what they do, that is for sure). I believe she did get a handbag and she got a good price :) As we continued on, we pasted a daycare and the teacher told us to come in, so we went in and sat down, she quieted the children and then suddenly this one little boy stood up and started singing ‘Frère Jacques’, it was priceless. We took some pics and then gave the teacher some money and continued on.
Ended up out the same exit we went with out guide and so we had to flag a taxi again, this time the meter was on and we paid less. He was almost driving around in a circle so we got dropped off at the end of a street. We walked along to get something to eat, picked an Italian restaurant, I know funny, Italian in Morocco, but the food was good. We got back to the hostel and Dafne and I walked to the internet cafe. I looked up some hostels for my next stop, booked one and got the directions, then we were on our way back. I packed up my stuff so I am ready to leave tomorrow and off to bed.
Day 176 Fri. Oct. 16 *Chefchaouen
Had brkfast with the girls again today, they were heading out today too, to Meknes. I went back to the room, got my things and then they came got theirs and we said our goodbyes. I showed the reception my directions in Chefchaouen and he said it was pretty easy, I quickly looked at this one couples guide book at the map to get an idea. Grabbed my bags and walked down to the bus station, I checked in and dropped my big bag off, and went to sit and chill. I met an Australian couple Donna and Cam, we ended up chatting til the bus came, they were heading to Tangers to take the ferry to Spain. So, I gave them some info on Spain that I could and they gave me info on Morocco, they had been here for a couple of weeks and have seen a lot. We got on the bus and I sat in the seats next to them and we talked most of the way there. They told me about their camel trek and gave me ideas of where to go to get better prices. They were also in Essaouira and told me places to go and see there, very cool couple. I also got talking with Cam about Australia and he told me good spots to go and things to do there also. We had one stop along the way for a snack and toilet break. I got off and stretched my legs a bit and ended up talking to this young Kiwi couple who were also going to Chaouen. We all got back on the bus and off we went. I took some pics on the ride, heading into the Rif Mountains
Gorgeous scenery on the way. The ride was about 5 hours on an old bus, but I survived. Said good-bye to Cam and Donna and got off. I spoke with Rachel and Hamish, the young kiwi couple and we decided to take a taxi to our hostels, it was a bit hill to get up to the Medina of which was where my hostel was. We got dropped at theirs first, it was just outside the Medina and they were nice and walked with me to find mine. We got a bit turned around and then this young guy walked us to it, and didn’t want any money either. I checked in ‘Pension Souika it is a family owned and run hostel. There is the father and 3 boys. I unfortunately did not get their names but here are their pics. The place was great and they were excellent hosts
So, I got my room, it was a very tiny one, with a single bed, and a small night table, all good. There was a common room right outside my room and a small kitchen, 2 rooftop terraces and another common area downstairs, free wifi and the best part was it was only 5.5o EUR, can’t go wrong for that price
you could also sleep on the roof terrace if you wanted to
I put my things in my room and the three of us went to go get a bite to eat. They had a guide book that they followed pretty well, and so there was a particular restaurant they were looking for. We found it, was pretty cool looking, there were a few different floors and we went to the top patio area to look over the city
here we are, Hamish, Rachel and me
We order a few different dishes, chicken with almond sauce and some couscous, and we even got desert, fruit and Moroccan crepes, was all very good. After, we left and went back to our hostels. I grabbed my puter to look up flights back to Spain from here, (gotta check everyday to get a good price), then surfed a few other things. I met Neil and Madeline from Australia, they were traveling around Europe and some other places, they were heading to Spain after here and I gave them some information of hostels, etc and I also met Dave and Angela from the U.S, they are traveling all over for a year, very cool. We all just chilled in the common room and talked.
me, with my computer, drinking some fanta in Chefchaouen, Morocco … lol
One upsetting thing I found out or rather figured out when Dave was looking at my pics, is that for the most part I have been taking my photos on a small setting which means I won’t get a very good pic if I try to enlarge them, damn it! You know I reset it after that, so most of Morocco is on a better setting. So, finally I shut down the puter and crashed in my mini room for the night, I had just a small square for a window maybe 6 x 8 big, crazy. Goodnight
Day 177 Sat. Oct. 17
Up, got ready and went out to the common room, with my puter. Just as I was walking out Hamish and Rachel were here, they moved hostels to have the internet, (I’m not the only one :}). I chatted with them for a bit and decided to go along touring with them. I put my things away and off we went. We first went to the Kasbah (a type of Medina or fortress)
As we were walking around in there, a few other people were also, and this one young Moroccan guy, who was on vaca here asked to take our picture, so Hamish asks for money, and the guy actually pays him 20 MAD, crazy. It is kind of different that if you ask to take someone’s pic there, they will ask for money, but if someone were to ask to take our pic, we would usually first as why, but never think to ask for money, interesting concept. We left there and went to head up the mountain to the abandoned Mosque.
Okay, here might me a good spot to add the link for Chefchaouen ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chefchaouen ), it is a city northwest of the country and as I mentioned when heading here, it is in the Rif Mountains. It is often called Chaouen by the locals. It is a beautiful little city with its blue-rinsed houses and buildings, a tradition that comes from the town's former Jewish population.
As we walked, we came to the washing station along the river, it is where the towns people go to wash their clothes the old fashion way
Then we walked up the mountain to the mosque
Walked back down and got a bite to eat, I had the beef skewers, was so good. Sitting at the tables outside, and lots of cats mingling around. Got back to the hostel and got online quick to check a few things and then put it away to go for a walk through the souk a bit. I spoke with the owner and his son, as they were outside, manning a shop. I walked along the narrow alleys, looked at all the stuff, there was a few shops that just sold Westernized merchandise, but most sold a lot of wool, as this area of Morocco is known for it. It gets pretty cold up this way in the winter months they were telling me, so that type of clothing is very suitable. I grabbed a snack from the shop next door and went back to get online. I met this Nancy, another Canadian, from Montreal/B.C (lived in both) she is a creative writing teacher and she was traveling around, and possibly going to get some work here in Morocco. We chatted for awhile and man she told the best stories about her travels, she has been to some interesting places. She is also doing a blog ‘Women traveling alone’ check it out! Neil and Madeline came in and we all chatted for awhile. I organized some of my pics and then crashed for the night.
Day 178 Sun. Oct. 18
Up early again, and went out to the common room. I went online to check flights again, and then Neil came in too, they were heading out to get to Spain, Nancy came up also. I was suppose to check out today but decided to stay another night or two, the funny thing is that Nancy was suppose to get my room, so we went to the reception to find out what was happening and he ended up giving us a room together with two double beds, and a nice big window, excellent and it is still the same price. So we both moved our things into the new room,
locked it up and decided to go get some brkfast, Rachel was out on her puter, so I invited her to come along. Hamish was hiking the Rif Mountain today, wow! We walked down to the square and got some fresh fruit juice and omelettes, that is another popular dish here in Morocco, as well as fresh juices, the banana is really yummy. We finished eating and Rachel went off on her own and Nancy and I went back to the hostel quickly and then took a walk around
Back to the hostel after and I asked the reception for some information on travel, the buses, and also about going to see the Kif factories. (if you read the link, you would know that the countryside around it has a reputation for being a prolific source of kif (marijuana). The Chefchaouen region is one of the main producers of cannabis in Morocco) Up in the Rif Mountains there are several Kif factories where if you have a guide you can go and see how it is made, I thought it would be interesting, so I asked. He got a guide, Mosin and Nancy and I went to check it out. We had to trek up the mountain to get to this particular spot, and we were not heading for the larger factories but rather a small one.
I will explain the next few pics, so once the plants are ready, they are chopped down and left to dry, once they are dried, he takes this big bowl, covers it with a cloth and then they place the dried kif on top, then they cover that too, and secure it, next is the fun part, you take two sticks and beat it. Once you are done, you lift off the cover and you have a bowl with resin, they then take that, once they get a whole lot of it and pack it into a brick size and leave it to sit for a few days and it becomes hard, and there you have hashish. Pretty primitive, but that is how it is done, all around the Rif Mountains, this time of year you can see groups of people with these bowls beating them. Apparently a 1000 kilos of the kif, gets you 1 kilo of hashish, crazy! When Hamish hiked up the mountain today, he saw some of people doing the same, but they will not let you approach or come near unless you have a guide like I said
Nancy and me
We walked back to the hostel,
Got some snacks on the way and then we both logged onto our puters. I needed to figure out my plan of action here in Morocco. I knew where else I wanted to go, I just needed to find out the easiest routes and I was still searching for a cheap camel trek. I organized some pics and Nancy and I had some more great conversation. Then it was time to turn it.
Day 179 Mon. Oct. 19
I was awake but just relaxed in my bed for a bit. Then Nancy was up also and we chatted and decided to go have those omelettes again. We got up and got ready and walked over to the restaurant. After we were finished, I walked to the post office to mail my postcards and then went to find this great pastry shop I came across with Hamish and Rachel the other day but couldn’t remember the turn off, so I headed back to the hostel. I asked the receptionist about a camel trek and he said he has a friend coming down to speak to me about it. I went up and chilled for a bit, then Nancy and I ventured out to find the pastry shop again. We didn’t find that one but found another one, I had a filo pastry with cream, was good and she had a banana juice. We left and went back, got online again and then I took a nap. Someone told us earlier that there was going to be a festival tonight, something to do with the Berbers, apparently they come down from the mountains and have 3 days to find a wife and get married, something like that (found that out later), anyways, I got up from my nap and we walked down to the square to see about this festival, but nothing was happening. We quickly went back to get a jacket and the reception said his friend was here to speak to me. I met him and ended up coming with us for dinner, I told him right off the top that if his price was too high, I didn’t even need to hear his sales pitch. Well, he ignored that at first, and once we were in the restaurant, and started to show me photos. of other trips, I said it again, and asked what his price was. Way too much, it might have been a good deal for someone that actually wanted to be on the trek alone with him and a Nomad family but I preferred to be in a group. I thanked him for his time and once we were finished eating we all headed back to the hostel. I am getting a bit discouraged on this idea of a camel trek, it is such a common thing here, since we are so close to the Sahara, there has to be a better deal somewhere. I think I am going to have to wait til I get to Marrakesh. I called the hostel in Casablanca to find out if they had rooms available and they do, so I am heading there tomorrow on the early bus. I chatted with Nancy some more, while we were both online again, then packed my stuff, paid my bill and headed off to sleep. An early morning tomorrow and a long bus ride :(
Day 180 Tues. Oct. 20 *Casablanca
Up bright and early, Nancy woke up also, so we chatted while I got ready and then I was on my way. I walked to the square to get a taxi to the bus station, easy enough. Got to the station and hilarious, as I was walking up the steps to the office, I tripped, and I was so impressed with myself with my large and small packs on, I was able to keep myself up, otherwise it could have been a terrible mess…lol. I got in and bought my ticket to Casablanca and walked over to the bus, put my bag in and found a seat. Off we went at 6:45am, I tried to nap along the way, but we had a few stops in some small villages. Most of these stops there wasn’t really a bus station, nor a bus stop, it was just a open area, with a few food carts around and some merchandise booths.
We also stopped in Rabat for a toilet break, I ended up talking to a couple of girls quickly who were also heading Casablanca, Nuria – Spain and Florencia – Argentina. Got back on the bus and tried to nap for a bit, the air con on the bus was really high, so I was a bit chilled, but fine since it was such a hot day out. We finally arrived in Casablanca at approx 12 ish, got off and I approached the girls to see if they had a place to stay. They didn’t have anything, so I told them about the hostel I had called. They were also planning to go to Essaouira from here, and so we all went to find out the times and prices of the bus. Then we wandered off to find the hostel in the Medina, I found out they are both living and working in Mallorca (Majorca), an island of Spain. As we walked along to find the hostel
Info on Casablanca (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casablanca) It is on the western coast of Morocco, along the Atlantic Ocean. It’s the largest city and is the chief port. It’s considered the economic capital of Morocco.
clock tower just at the entrance of the Medina
this is the petit taxis
We walked through the Medina to find out hostel, it was another of the Youth Hostel International chain. We found it with a little bit of help and went to check it.
instead of staying in a dorm room, we got a family room with a double bed and two singles, this way we could lock out things in and not worry, and it was only 6 EUR/night. We put out things away, and took a walk to find food and get some pics, they both had amazing cameras
here they are to the left is Nuria, and Florencia on the right
after eating we went to find out prices for renting a car, they thought it would be just as cheap to rent a car and head to Essaouira, but we found out that was not the case, so we had two bus options, either leaving at 6am again or later at 5pm and it was another 5-6 hr ride. The one thing I wanted to see here in Casablanca and apparently really the only great thing to see was the Hassan II Mosque, it is the largest mosque in Morocco and third largest in the world. I was told they did tours inside as this is one of the few in Morocco that the public can go in, and I was told there was a glass floor to see the Atlantic below as it is build on the side of the cliff. I asked a few men as we walked about it and they said there was no glass floor but when I googled it,(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hassan_II_Mosque) .. anyways. We decided to take a walk down to see it.
some pic on the way
I thought this was worth a pic, look at all those satellite dishes on this building
Hassan II Mosque
I just looked it up and to correct, this is one of 2 mosques in Morocco that non-Muslims can go in with a guided tour to see the interior on it. This one only had them a few times a day and I was not going to be able to get inside, oh well. Some pics of the beach next to it
We sat there for a while and just chilled, it is so Extravagant, absolutely beautiful though. Then we made out way back to the hostel as it was starting to get dark. Got a few great night shots
We got back to the hostel and they wanted to load their pics on their FB, so we walked to the internet cafe and I went online to check some hostels for the next stop and then we went back to the hostel and discussed the next day, I was leaving on the early bus and they were not sure. We walked around to find a bite to eat and sat in a little hole in the wall diner type place and had some chicken, was good. Then headed back to the hostel and they decided to head out on the early bus also, so we were going to Essaouira together, cool. We all set out alarms and turned in for the night.
(oh and as for the movie ‘Casablanca’, apparently none of the movie was even filmed here)
Day 181 Wed. Oct. 21 *Essaouira
Up bright and early, got out things packed and walked to the bus station. We made it just in time, got on the bus and chilled out for another long bus ride. We stopped a few times and once to eat, and I was approached by a little girl wanting some money, so I gave her a granola bar and got back on the bus. I slept a bit on the way and took some pics along the way at some of the stops
then we arrived in Essaouira approx noon again. As soon as we got off the bus, there were a few young boys telling us about different accommodations that they had for a good price. The girls spoke with one of them and so we decided to go and check the place out. It was just up the road and it was someone’s home, there was 4 rooms on the first floor and a bathroom, and a common area. The family lived on the second floor and there was a roof terrace (lol, of which the walls were too high to see anything, you had to step up to see over it), we were offered a room with a double bed and single bed, with some couches and it was only going to be 4 EUR/ night, great deal, so we took it.
the common area
this is the view from the roof
this is another cemetery of the people that died in the black plaque again
The gentlemen that owned it came down and gave us the key and we paid. The young boys lingered as they were waiting for some money for taking us here, I had warned the girls that would happen but they didn’t think so. The owner kept signalling to me to not pay them, but the girls ended up giving them something. :) We cleaned up and sorted out things and then decided to venture out and see what we could. So walking along to the Medina
I told you about the cats and kittens everywhere, this city was probably the worse for them and here are a few tiny kittens, not looking so good :(
very derelict buildings
we came up to the port and stayed to take a bunch of pics
Info on Essaouira, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essaouira), it a western city, along the Atlantic coast. It is best known for being a great spot for surfing, for the high winds. It has a small port and they specialize here in the Medina of shops with a lot of wood-carving items.
okay pics
It was a beautiful sunset, but a bad smell of fish ;( As we walked along there were carts of the fish some of the men had caught for the day, there was mini sharks,and eel, pretty wild, and of course there was tons of seagulls around. Time to go eat, we found a nice restaurant in the Medina, had a good meal and then took a walk through to look in the shops. We stopped at one particular one and the girls were interested in a wood puzzle box, so they stayed and chatted with the guy there, while I continued to wander a bit. I came across one shop and was looking at the product and the young guy approached me and we talked for a bit. He too, was convinced that I was either Berber or Arabic. He didn’t try to sell me anything, just offered to make me and the girls some Tagine tomorrow afternoon, lol. He walked with me back to met the girls and then we made out way back to the hostel. Got in and chilled out, then turned in for the night.
Day 182 Thur. Oct. 22
Got up to a nice sunny day (well most days here in Morocco have been sunny ones and very hot). I got ready, put on my swimsuit as I guessed we were going to head down to the beach and check it out, and maybe get some sun. (One thing while traveling with others that speak another language it’s easy to forget that we don’t understand each other, the girls would converse in Spanish and of course I didn’t know what they were planning and when I spoke English, apparently I spoke too quickly for them to understand, so it could be a little trying at times, but we survived) So, we headed out to find the beach, it was a bit of a walk but so nice to listen to the waves. We stopped at a small cafe on the promenade and had a croissant and then continued on.
you could take a ride on a camel or horse along the beach too
We sat in the sun for a bit, it was a bit chilly with the breeze coming in over the water, there were a few surfers as well. Then we decided to go see this famous spot where Jimi Hendrix stayed while in Essaouira, and the song ‘Castles in the Sand’ was misconceived that it was written about the castles in Essaouira (so I just read), but the small cafe in the next pic is apparently where he stayed for three days here
this is the castles in the sand, it is a castle ruins and from the wind the sand has filled in around it
We had one small problem on the way up to find this, I asked a young guy that was walking the beach what direction it was in and he pointed it out and then started to walk with us. I told him that I was not going to pay him and that we could find it ourselves, but apparently he was going this way anyways, I said it again just to reassure him that I was going to pay him to walk with us. He did fall a bit behind us and then suddenly, strangely he asked if I would kiss him, (what is that!) I said no, and told him to go on his way, then he approached Florencia and put his had on her butt and she yelled at him and finally walked away. That was a bit odd, but you never know what you are going to come across any where really. So, after that long walk, we made out way back and stopped to sit on the beach again to rest. Then we continued on to get a bite to eat and found this small spot, so we sat down and ate. There was an adorable little black kitten there and he looked clean, so I played with it for a bit. Then a couple of young guys sat beside us and I made a comment about all the cats here. Andrew and Meshack both from Australia. I ended up chatting away with them for a bit, about where they have been in Morocco and we got on the topic of a camel trek and they informed me that one of the hostels in Marrakesh offers the 3 day one for cheap, Yahoo! We finished eating and headed back to the hostel, I was happy, finally I can go on a camel trek for an affordable price. We stopped at a few jewellery shops and in one the girls started the bartering game with the guy, he got his friend in to make some mint tea for them and I took the key and walked back to the hostel, I was not interested in anything there. I found an internet cafe to head back to. I got to the hostel and no one was around so I had to take another cold shower, aww! Then I loaded some of my pics and walked back to the cafe, bumped into the girls on the way and gave them the key, they got a great deal on some jewellery at that shop, and part of the deal they had to give some of their own things and pay,funny that the guy would want one of their shirts and their pashminas. I logged online and I got a message from Nancy, we were hoping we would be able to possibly meet up again in a different location of Morocco and maybe. I also got to speak to my mom for a little bit and then I booked my hostel for Marrakesh. I finished up there and went back to the hostel, got back on my puter and started to try out this movie making program I downloaded to make a video for a contest I have entered through Hostel International (some of you already know all about that), I played around with it for awhile and chatted with the girls and then we all packed our bags and crashed for the night.
Tomorrow, is off to Marrakesh, this time it is a later bus and a shorter ride, thankfully.
Day 183 Fri. Oct. 23 *Marrakesh
Got up with the girls, they got ready and we said goodbye and they were off to Agadir. My bus was a bit later, so I organized my things and went up to the rooftop and took a few more pics and chilled
I finally grabbed my things, turned the key in and thank the family and walked down to the bus station. I quickly stopped a couple of ladies to ask where the entrance to the station was and the one lady offered to walk with me, I thought it was safe, thinking the woman don’t expect to get money but I was wrong, she walked me right in, even after I told her I knew what I was doing now, but she stayed with me. I got in and bought my ticket and suddenly she tapped me on the shoulder and ask ‘was the service okay, everything is okay’ if that is not an obvious way to pretty much ask for a fee for walking me, then I don’t know what is, I went to get some change to give her and she walked away before I could, interesting. I then sat to wait a bit longer, there seemed to be a lot of other people waiting for the same bus. I chatted with this Spanish girl for awhile, and then a couple of Australian girls also came along, they both had bought large bongo drums and had to carry them, cool thing but having to lug those around would not be fun. Finally we got on the bus and off we went. The ride was only going to be 2 hours, and we would be in Marrakesh. We stopped at one point for like 20 mins for toilets and some food, and I sat with the Aussie’s and chatted some more, they were already in Marrakesh before so they told me about it. Then we got back on the bus, and just an hour to go. We got in and I asked them if they were heading to the Medina, but they weren’t. I then approached another girl and she thought she could walk and I informed her it was too far and offered to share a taxi. We ended up having to barter for a price for that as well, the hostel listed how much it should cost to get there by taxi, and finally we got the deal. Jumped in the taxi and to the Djemaa el Fna (the main square in Marrakesh), we went our separate ways to find out hostels. I found mine pretty easy, thankfully the directions were good, cuz walking through the Medina is difficult to not get lost, but I was okay. I got to ‘Equity Point Hostel’ it is affiliated with the same hostel I stayed at in Barcelona. I checked in
I was in the 8 bed co-ed dorm room, and the cost was quite a bit more then I had been paying here in Morocco (15 EUR) but it was a very nice hostel. It was just newly opened, there was 2 rooftop terraces, a couple of common areas, a kitchen/dinning area and free brkfast as well, nice. I, of course was only booking for the one night as I was planning the camel trek for tomorrow. So, I asked about it and put my name down for tomorrows trek. I met John from the U.S, who was also checking in and I told him all about the trek, they had a board up with the pics and I remembered the route from when I heard about it in Fes, so I gave him the run down and he decided to book it as well. Cool. I put my things in my room and made my bed and then walked around the hostel to see everything. I ended up sitting in the dinning are and talking with John, George and a another guy (both Canadian working in Switzerland I think). I decided to go take a walk to get some supplies for the trek and John came along as well. We walked along to get some water, and we needed some wraps for our heads in the desert. We stopped at a couple of shops and I got to play the bartering game this time, I had a lot of fun and thankfully I had good people to deal with that didn’t et offended when I gave my price and told them how ridiculous their price was, and I think I got some deals. I also got a small bag to take to the desert. We continued to walk along and then got a bite to eat, pizza, was good. I know in Morocco and having pizza but we were both tired of couscous so wanted something different. We had some good conversation and then headed back to the hostel to pack up a bag for tomorrow, and got online quickly. I told John about my contest and asked him if he would do some of the video taping on our trek, no problem. Then crashed for the night, got an early morning tomorrow….so excited. There is a few more people going on the trek as well, so all good.
Day 184 Sat. Oct. 24 *Camel Trek-Hotel in Quarazzate-Sahara Desert
Okay to make my life easier I am going to add the video I made for the contest as well as the story for the next few days entry. So, for Day 184 Sat. Oct. 24 – Day 186 Mon. Oct. 26….this is what you get
JJ’s Travel Adventure … Sahara Desert - Camel Trek
Rise and shine for my camel trek 7:00 am. I am well prepared to spend a night in the Sahara.
We have a group of 7 great people, which makes the trip all the better. The travel time was long but the panoramic views of the High Atlas and Ait Ben Haddou ,Ouarzazate, the Valley of Rose, and the Berber Villages within the mountains were so striking. We spent the night in a small Auberge in the Dades Gorges, listening to the river. Awoke the next day to a nice breakfast and travelled along to get to the desert, along the way this time we stopped to admire the Todra Gorges, yet another great sight.
Finally, we see the large Sand dunes in the distance as well as a herd of camels along the plains returning from their drink of water for the afternoon, and we knew we were approaching the Desert.
We arrive in Merzouga village and are met by the Nomad family that have the tents in the desert. We have a nice lunch and then we finally meet our camels. I happen to have the tallest one of them all. They are interesting animals that are extremely well behaved, you get up on them and next the Berber guide- Mobarake gives them the order to get up, it’s a bit of a teeter totter and up we go. Once all are up and ready, off we go, the guide leads the head camel and they are all linked together by rope in order to keep them from straying.
The scenery around is mesmerizing, the sand dunes are so high and the sharp edges of the sand were incredible. As we walk along just over the dunes we see the sun set…changing the colour of the sand from the bright coral to the deep brown. We arrive at our camp after an hour and half on the camels, the ride is pretty smooth, when going down hill, it feels like a lot work for the camel and you feel like it will topple over, but they make it.
The camp is just a group of tents and an area in the center for us to sit and relax and then we are served a delicious Moroccan chicken and vegetable Tangine with some bread. Just after we finish our Melon fruit desert, Mobarake and Hassan, our Berber Hosts get the bongo drums out and play for awhile and we get a chance to give it a try.
We let our dinner settle and then we all walked up to one of the dunes and listen to some desert stories from Mobarake, while admiring the clearest sky I have ever seen. You could see the milky way and every possible constellation. I saw 4 shooting stars….absolutely amazing!
Another small trek up to the top of the high dunes and we get comfortable to continue to be captivated by the night sky, I sink my toes into the sand and relax with the silence and breath in the clear fresh air. After such a wonderful day, we all turn into our nomad tents for a nice sleep on the sand and warm blankets.
Good morning Sahara Desert….5:00am, we walk to our camels and get back on for another short trek back to the village and along the way, we witness the sunset ..Wow!
This is truly a ‘must do’ experience while in Africa, and I am so glad that I did.
So, just a bit of a clearer run down of some of it. In Marrakesh that morning a gentlemen from the agency came to pick us up to take us to the square and catch our shuttle. There was seven of us on this trek, myself of course, then John, Simona (Italian), Carolyna and Kristen (Spanish) and Andrew and Meshack (Australian)
We got in the shuttle and went on our way, but the one thing I didn’t mention in the video was after about 20 mins on the road, we got a flat tire :(
no problem, the driver changed it up quickly and we were off again. The ride was pretty long, but we had several stops for picture taking and we arrived at the Auberge at around 6 pm.
Here are some random shots and fun shots that didn’t make it in the video
Ouarzazate - (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ouarzazate)
our room in the Auberge
So, we had a great dinner at the Auberge and a good night. Then up the next day for more driving, and more pics
Got to the desert and to the camp
Was a great night sky as I mentioned and a good sleep and we were up early again. Back to the village, to head back to Marrakesh
our guide Mobarake
Overall it was a fantastic trip, until….our 12 hour ride back to Marrakesh. It started out fine, but then suddenly our driver Abdu, snapped. He went off on Andrew, screaming something, well that made things uncomfortable. We made a quick stop after that and I spoke with him to see what the problem was and apparently he had some problem with the boys, stupid really. Off we went again, and everyone just tried to sleep, some watched videos or listened to music, and then again, the driver pulls over and goes off this time on John, was really strange to say the least. Thankfully it wasn’t much longer after that we finally arrived in Marrakesh. So, needless to say, regardless of the crappy ride back, we all made it unscathed, physically at least, maybe not emotionally for some. Very odd man!
So, now were are on Monday night in Marrakesh
Day 186 Mon. Oct. 26 *Marrakesh
We arrived back to the hostel at around 7pm, and we got our rooms, this time I was in a 4 bed room, got it for the same price, how nice.
I cleaned up and then went downstairs I loaded all my pics and checked emails and then shut down. We all headed off to get some dinner and drinks. We walked down to Djemaa el Fna, the main square where it is full of tourist, there are a group of food stalls and all kinds of different entertainment going on around (dancing boys, story-tellers, magicians, peddlers, snake charmers and acrobats).
Marrakesh links ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marrakech / http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Djemaa_el_Fna )
We sat down to eat and I had couscous and skewers and was great.
We decided to walk down to the modern city (Gueliz) to find a spot to have some drinks (not easy to find alcohol in Morocco, except in Marrakesh), we came to a bar and it was full of scantily dressed women, sitting with old men (can you figure that one out). So we had a few drinks and then I headed back on my own to get working on my video, as it was due in a few days. I got in and worked on some of my video and then turned in for the night.
Day 187 Tues. Oct. 27
Went to brkfast and it was break and some really good sugar pastries, John joined me and then Simona. I finished and went to my room to pack up my bags, I was going to go check out a cheaper hostel for the next few nights. John came along with me to find it, it was difficult to find and was down a small alley off the square, it was okay but I liked the other one better. We continued to walk to find the Palace, we figured since we are here, we should go do some sight seeing, unfortunately it was closed.
So we continued to walk along and find our way back to the hostel. I got in and asked to get a room again for the next few nights. For tonight they only had a 4 bed room and it was going to cost a bit more, so I went ahead and booked it, moved my things in there and ended up taking a 3 hour nap, I was exhausted for some reason.
When I got up, I grabbed my puter and booked my flight, and then went to reception to print off my boarding pass, John did the same as he was taking the same flight to Seville, Spain. We went up to the terrace to see Simona and George and another Canadian guy (forget his name). We all went to get some food, then we took a stroll around the shops.
These are from the terrace earlier….the shot of all of us is, from left (can’t remember his name) then John, George, Simona and Me
We got back to the hostel and I started to work on my video once again, I was doing pretty good considering it was my first time using the program and doing a video. I was up pretty late and finally crashed, extremely tired.
Day 188 Wed. Oct. 28
Up in time for brkfast and John, Simona, Carolyna and Kristen were all there, It was crepes today and was really yummy. I showed them my video so far. Said good bye to the girls as they were leaving today, and went to my room, packed my bags again, and took them to the reception area, moving back to the dorm today. I handed in my laundry and got on my puter again. I worked away on my video again for a few hours, was going along pretty well. Then I decided to go take a walk, I went through the souk, checked out some shops, I tried to barter with a few of them and one or two budged and I got deals on a few things but some were pretty stubborn. I went back to the hostel and did the story for my video and chatted with John and Simona. Then we went for some food, was a good meal. Then we walked through the square and Simona got a henna tattoo, I opted not as I have real one ;)
We got back to the hostel and we sat in the common area, I did some more editing of my video. We had some funny conversations translating Italian and English with Simona, was fun. Then off to bed since we were the only ones up.
Day 189 Thur. Oct. 29
Last day in Morocco :( Went up for breakfast with John and Simona, and then went to get ready. We all went out to do some more shopping today, Simona was on a mission to get all hers done, as she was leaving early tomorrow. We went into quite a few shops and she did a great job bartering. She got an awesome deal on a carpet, and a leather stool. I got myself a few things and I was happy with my prices of things. Unhappy that I still could not get this one gentlemen down on a few things, ggrrr! Oh well!
Here are some pics
We had some lunch and the walked over to the Hammam and I took a quick tour, then rushed back to the hostel to get changed and went back to have a hammam. First you sit and relax, then they rinse you and put some black soap on and you go into a very hot sauna, sit there for awhile. I had to get out, was too much for me. Then you get a scrub down with more black soap and rinse off and take a shower. Next you go sit out on the lounge chairs again and relax and then went up for a massage. Was all good! I do however think the hammam in Turkey was the best. I walked back to the hostel and got back to my video again, then John and Simona came back and we all went to our last dinner in Morocco. After, we walked down a few streets and I picked up a few more things at great prices. They stayed to walk around the square and I went back to the hostel to repack my bags and make sure it all fit, and to finally finish this video. I got it all done and posted it. They came back and we all chatted some more and then turned in for the night.
That was Morocco…….was great! Every city I went to was different and had it’s own special features and charm. I mentioned it in Fes about the Imperial cities and I got to 2 out of the 4 of them, Fes and Marrakesh. I did kind of a loop there but was good like I said to see the different areas of the country as well. I really enjoyed my trek in the Sahara Desert and will remember that forever, that was the clearest night sky I have even seen and probably will ever see. If you are ever considering heading to Morocco, I recommend you do it, great country and wonderful people!
So next, I flew back to Seville, so I could get my small pack that I left there at the hostel. I am going to add the day here
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Day 190 Fri. Oct. 30 *Seville
So, John and I had brkfast and checked out and walked to the square to get a taxi. We got to the airport and checked in, there was some strange mix up at the counter when we asked about needing to get a stamp before going through out gate, anyways. We went through and sat and waited to board. Finally got on, I watched a video and it was another short flight and now going ahead one hour, (daylight savings). We went down to get out bags and I got mine but John’s was not there, Crazy….we checked in like 5 mins apart, but apparently that mix up I mention had something to do with it. Damn, John was pretty calm, a lot calmer then I would have been. We went to the desk and he had to fill out some forms and give them his contact info and they would get to him as soon as they knew more. Ha! Ryanair, their claim to fame is no lost baggage and on this flight alone there was another couple who’s bags weren’t on either. We went out to get the bus back down to the city center and from there we walked to the hostel. I first went to the other one, I always mixed it up. Anyways, my bag was safe and sound, we both checked in, got an 8 bed co-ed dorm, I put my bag away and went for food. I got him to try the paella, he enjoyed it, of course, it is good. Then we went to the post office and I grabbed a box to mail out some things. Went back to the hostel after walking to see some things that I could remember to tell him what they were … lol. I went back, and packed the box and back again to the post office and mailed it out, done! We went back to the hostel and John checked the info for his bag and no updates, I logged online too and booked a hostel for Lagos tomorrow. We both just chilled for awhile and then went to have a drink down at the restaurant next door, he wanted to try Tinto de Verano, was good as usual. Then back to the hostel and off to bed, I have an early bus in the morning.
Move along to the next post to read the last of my travels in Portugal…
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